La Maldición Vinos de Madrid Malvar de Valdilecha 2020 (6 Bottles) Madrid, Spain

First produced in 2013, this idiosyncratic, pulpy, saline white is made from Spain's indigenous Malvar grape. The fruit is drawn from a tiny, 0.44-hectare plot of old, bush vines rooted in the chalky clay soils of Valdilecha in the Madrid mountains, some 730 metres above sea level. Both here and at Bernabeleva, Isart plays a key role in the resuscitation of this variety.